Horto: The Ethical Hour of an Urban Oasis

The rapid expansion of Milan’s urban areas have made it one of Europe’s major metropolitan regions. It’s hard then to picture amid this dense growth, a thriving culture of local produce or an extensive network of farms, dairies and producers close by. But Milan is the world’s capital of fashion and design — title synonymous with a fine culinary palette.

As urban sprawl continues, it has become increasingly difficult for the Milanese to slow down and find meaningful connection with nature in the heart of the city. But elevated from street level is a new restaurant offering respite and a sustainable balance through the concept of ‘the ethical hour.’ The rooftop restaurant, Horto, first opened in 2022. Their premise is simple: all seasonal ingredients must be sourced within an hour of Milan.

In essence, Horto explores the concept of time. It’s a culinary and cultural project that values local territory through a short supply chain. This very simple parameter boils down to the fact that everything can be found and is, indeed, nearby. As Alberto Toè, Executive Chef and Head of Menu Development of Horto Restaurant states, “Horto is building a new synergy between kitchen and territory that stands on a mutual relationship of knowledge and respect.”

The ethical hour is derived from 3-Starred Michelin Chef Norbert Niederkoeffler's philosophy that rethinks existing socio-economic structures by investigating the relationships between production, product, territory and consumption. The ethical hour is a sustainable culinary philosophy that would benefit the planet greatly if adopted on an individual, national and global level. If only it were that simple. “We are the ones who set the standard of how we relate to food,” Toè claims. “Every choice, no matter how small it is, can help in creating sustainable and ethical culinary experiences that affect our relationship with the environment that surrounds us.”

Toè’s belief relates to architecture too. Horto’s Architect and Environment Coordinator, Luisa Collina firmly understands that our experience of a menu and connection to a space can all be heightened by sensitive design. This was Collina’s ambition. As cities are often set up in a way that’s divorced from nature, Horto was conceived as an escape and means to realign our natural spirit.

Horto is located in the heart of Milan on the rooftop of the historical Medelan complex. Despite the building’s age, Horto expresses its 21st century personality to aid the natural immersion within the metro. The design is mainly expressed through the surfaces and the materials that compose the restaurant. “The finishes are made of natural and recycled materials,” Collina notes, “The flooring reuses oak wood of old vinegar barrels that creates a pattern of irregular hexagons, and the plaster of the sinuous walls is enriched with residues from rice processing.” The hard and soft furnishings of timber and clay-based finishes also communicate an ambience of natural materiality that grounds the dining experience.

There are several other factors of the architecture and design that help facilitate the immersive Horto experience and provide a returning connection to nature. The interior and exterior perfectly complement each other. While the interior expresses organic forms and is quite stark to avoid any artificial solutions, the terrace is rich in botanical elements that combine natural shapes and geometric rigour. “The result is an enveloping space that welcomes and connects its guests with the city, while making them comfortable,” Collina states. “Chef Norbert Niederkoeffler's philosophy, with its values and attentions, manifests itself organically and coherently in the design choices in different scales and spheres: from the landscape to the interiors, from the service design to the furnishings.”

The botanical terrace at Horto is elevated above Milan, offering a 360-degree view of the city. Despite its wow factor, the landscape design moves away from the desire to amaze and instead, embraces the idea of making a dynamic and changing landscape accessible to everyone in the heart of Milan. Paving is interrupted by wide grassy lawns that invite you to walk barefoot. “The colours, the vegetation masses, the botanical harmonies and imbalances, change, spontaneously and seasonally,” Collina says. “And to use the words of Raffaella Colombo, the designer of this landscape, they include periods of stasis, death essences, mixed mantles, in a continuous process of becoming.”

Guided by an ethical philosophy and an inquiry of time (our most precious resource), Horto is the green heart of Milan and shows how architecture and fine cuisine can engage in a conscious and respectful relationship with nature. Horto’s light footprint on this planet shows how different sectors can collaborate to build a sustainable ecosystem.